The Café at Five Loaves Bakery

The review below was originally published in the Sturbridge Times Magazine, December, 2011 issue.

The Café at Five Loaves Bakery

It is only by accident that I know of the Café at Five Loaves Bakery.  If it had not been for a gift certificate from Spencerians, it would still be unknown to me.  What is even more startling is that is has been in existence for five years. 

The Bakery itself has been around for nine years and has a table at the West Brookfield Farmers Market.  Tragic as the end of the market season was, it forced me to turn off Main Street/Route 9 in the center of Spencer to find the bakery and its lovely breads and pastries.

Mechanic Street is not a picturesque side road.  Some of the buildings do look like a rehab is in order.  Others have been kept up, but age is apparent.  Nothing about the street would give one to expect much. 

The shop itself is pleasant inside.  The front consists of a counter and dining room.   It was not an ultra modern space that you might see on a cooking channel venue.  As it was mid-morning when we came, it was a minute before it dawned on us that there was more to Five Loaves than Five Loaves.  We grabbed some apricot pinwheels and an almond cream croissant, and left planning to return for a dinner.

A shock was in store for us.  On a Wednesday night, three of us walked in expecting to be seated immediately.  The dining room was full and the night was booked solid.  This in Spencer?  It was unexpected to say the least.  We were advised politely to make a reservation.  A full house augurs well and we took the hint.

The next Wednesday saw us happily seated with our enthusiastic waiter asking us if it was our first time as he brought us bread and whipped butter.  He said we were in for a treat and was telling the truth.  He patiently went over the appetizers and entrées we inquired about.  As the menu is new every week, the idea of “specials” is superfluous.  We knew what we each wanted.

For an appetizer, or “small plates” as they are termed on the menu, our daughter, Bríd, ordered the duck rillettes.  It is duck in the consistency of pâté with a fig jam on the side as well as slightly spicy mustard and caramelized onions.  It was to be spread on pieces of Five Loaves bread and was delicious.  How do I know?  Bríd has mentioned it wistfully several times since.

My wife Robin had the panzanella, a tomato and bread salad.  It also included artichokes and had a buttery flavor.

I had the ribollita, which is a Tuscan style bread and vegetable soup.  The wonderful Five Loaves bread absorbed the broth.  I could have stopped there and been happy.

But, I didn’t.  We all had entrees coming and were not budging.  Bríd had the Seafood Risotto.  She termed the risotto as a binder to hold together the generous amount of flavorful scallops, clams and shrimp.

My selection was the pan-seared salmon with citrus herb butter.  With it came a broccoli rabe.  Both were to my liking.

The crispy chicken in tomato butter sauce and asiago cheese with pasta was Robin’s choice.  A tasty and hearty dish for a cool night was her verdict.

For dessert, Bríd chose the rasqpberry linzer tart.  With its almond crust, it was more like a wonderful, rich cookie.

Robin ordered the pumpkin cheesecake.  She bakes a mean cheesecake herself, yet could only compliment the lightness and flavor of her dessert.

I had the lemon cloud, which looked like a pale version of crème brûlée, but with rich lemon flavor.

The café and bakery are the project of Darren and Connie Collupy.  It started when Darren was laid off after having been a chef for 20 years.  He started baking in the home oven,  Rather than blow it out, the bakery moved out.  Connie had a career in the front end of restaurants, but Darren gave her bakery OJT.  Then came lunch on 13 Mechanic Street.  Two years ago, dinner was added.

One should not throw around superlatives lightly, but we found a gem.  I almost feel like a traitor to myself in reviewing The Café at Five Loaves Bakery.  If this place becomes too popular, reservations may need to be made months in advance.

This is a find.  Don’t come unless you have confidence in your own ability to choose a wine as it’s BYOB.  

Dinner is Wednesday through Saturday.  Whenever you come, it might be a good idea to make a reservation, but Wednesdays are the big night.  There is a three course special for $20.   The Bakery is open mornings and for lunch Tuesday through Saturday.  The phone number is (508) 885-3760.  The website is http://www.fiveloavesbakery.com/ 

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